{"id":13795,"date":"2012-03-30T14:23:18","date_gmt":"2012-03-30T21:23:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/eltecolote.org\/content\/?p=13795"},"modified":"2012-04-01T19:40:57","modified_gmt":"2012-04-02T02:40:57","slug":"author-talks-tacos","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/eltecolote.org\/content\/en\/author-talks-tacos\/","title":{"rendered":"Author talks tacos"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_13798\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13798\" style=\"width: 317px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/eltecolote.org\/content\/2012\/03\/author-talks-tacos\/gustavo_tamale\/\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-13798\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-13798\" title=\"Gustavo_Tamale\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/eltecolote.org\/content\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/Gustavo_Tamale.png?resize=317%2C480&#038;quality=80&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"317\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/eltecolote.org\/content\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/Gustavo_Tamale.png?resize=317%2C480&amp;quality=80&amp;ssl=1 317w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/eltecolote.org\/content\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/Gustavo_Tamale.png?w=600&amp;quality=80&amp;ssl=1 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/eltecolote.org\/content\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/Gustavo_Tamale.png?resize=165%2C250&amp;quality=80&amp;ssl=1 165w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 317px) 100vw, 317px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-13798\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gustavo Arellano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Syndicated columnist and newspaper editor Gustavo Arellano\u2019s new book, \u201cTaco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America,\u201d the first comprehensive, written history of Mexican food in the U.S., hits shelves April 10.<\/p>\n<p>El Tecolote was able to review \u201cTaco USA\u201d and had a chance to speak with the author.<\/p>\n<p>Arellano, who authors the nationally syndicated \u201c\u00a1Ask A Mexican!\u201d column and works as the editor at the OC Weekly, was in San Francisco for one day on business. Before catching his return flight, he sat down at his favorite Mission taqueria (El Castillito) to wolf down a burrito and talk about his upcoming book\u2014an earnest exploration into America\u2019s historic and ongoing gastronomic fascination with Mexican food.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cToo often when it comes to the history of Mexicans in the United States, our contributions either never make it in the history books\u2014which is usually what happens\u2014or if they are, they are so distorted that you don\u2019t know fact from fiction,\u201d he said.<br \/>\nArellano\u2019s culinary journey begins on a \u201ccosmic\u201d scale, with Mexican-American astronauts Jos\u00e9 Hernandez and Danny Olivas dining on burritos in outer space during a 2009 space mission.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt\u2019s my intent to let people know that these are great stories. Not so much just because they are Mexican, they are just great stories and they deserved to be chronicled,\u201d he said. \u201cAnd you have them here too in San Francisco.\u201d<br \/>\nIndeed, there are notable stories about Mexican food in San Francisco, including the first day Febronio Ontiveros started selling burritos out of his El Faro grocery store in 1961.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cTaco USA\u201d also delves into the obscure, nearly forgotten stories of the early marketing of Mexican food by non-Mexicans like Glen Bell of Taco Bell and Steve Ells of Chipotle. For instance, he interviewed the owner of the San Bernardino taqueria where Bell stole the idea for the hard-shelled tacos that made the self-professed \u201ctaco titan\u201d famous.<\/p>\n<p>Like some sort of journalistic taco, Arellano has stuffed his book with informative details, and sluiced it with sharp, caustic wit that will be easily recognized by readers of his \u201c\u00a1Ask A Mexican!\u201d column. It\u2019s educational, yet always engaging and entertaining.<br \/>\nArellano admits he started out as a \u201cMexican food purist,\u201d but said that while writing the book he had to come to terms with the age-old debate\u2014in any ethnic cuisine\u2014on what is \u201cauthentic.\u201d He says that now he finds the authenticity game \u201csilly.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>He used a comment by a fan on Facebook, who wrote that they hoped Arellano\u2019s book would \u201cdecolonize the taco,\u201d as an example of the culinary purism he now rejects.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt makes no sense,\u201d he said. \u201cIf you really want to play that game, then any Mexican dish involving beef, cheese, rice, lamb and all that other stuff that we love is not authentic because the Spaniards brought them over.\u201d<br \/>\nWhether it\u2019s Korean tacos from Los Angeles, Tex-Mex or tater-tot breakfast burritos from South Dakota, Arellano said that ultimately all these styles are still Mexican food.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cJust like there is different kinds of Mexicans, there\u2019s different kinds of Mexican food,\u201d he said, adding that there is still a matter of taste involved.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cNot all Mexican food is created equal so, Taco Bell\u2014I consider it Mexican food, but I don\u2019t like it. I\u2019m not going to eat it, nor am I going to recommend it, but it is still Mexican food. It absolutely is.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>So far, \u201cTaco USA\u201d has garnered positive pre-release reviews from Publisher\u2019s Weekly, Kirkus Reviews and Booklist. Arellano said he\u2019s proud of his work and hopes that people enjoy it as much as he enjoyed researching and writing it.<br \/>\nHis only regret is that it took so long for this history to be assembled into a comprehensive narrative.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt\u2019s a good thing that I get to tell this story for the first time, but it\u2019s a tragedy that these stories have been around for decades and no one ever really bothered to try to find them,\u201d he said. \u201cHow many other stories have disappeared because no one even bothered to ask?\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Syndicated columnist and newspaper editor Gustavo Arellano\u2019s new book, \u201cTaco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America,\u201d the first comprehensive, written history of Mexican food in the U.S., hits shelves April 10.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":35,"featured_media":13798,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"newspack_popups_has_disabled_popups":false,"newspack_featured_image_position":"","newspack_post_subtitle":"","newspack_article_summary_title":"Overview:","newspack_article_summary":"","newspack_hide_updated_date":false,"newspack_show_updated_date":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[1580,1080,961,964],"coauthors":[],"class_list":["post-13795","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news","tag-ask-a-mexican","tag-food","tag-gustavo-arellano","tag-taco-usa-how-mexican-food-conquered-america","entry"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - 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